The final walkthrough on a new construction home — usually 3–7 days
before closing — is not a ceremony. It’s your last real leverage: items
documented now go on the builder’s punch list with closing pressure
behind them; items found after closing become warranty claims you chase
for months. Most walkthroughs are scheduled for an hour. Take two.
Here’s the actual checklist.
Before You Go
Bring: your contract and design-center order (you’re verifying you
got what you paid for), a phone charger (the humble outlet tester), a
marble or golf ball (floor slope), painter’s tape for marking defects,
and a checklist — this one. Schedule in daylight, and if you can, hire
an independent inspector for a pre-drywall and a final inspection
($400–$600 each); builders’ superintendents behave differently when a
licensed inspector is walking behind them.
Exterior (Start Outside)
- Grading and drainage: soil should slope
away from the foundation on all sides. Standing water lines or
erosion channels near the slab are the cheapest problem to fix now and
the most expensive to fix later. - Roof and gutters: from the ground with your phone
camera zoomed — straight ridgelines, no lifted or missing shingles,
downspouts that discharge away from the foundation (and confirm gutters
were actually included; they aren’t always). - Siding, brick, stucco: cracks, unpainted patches,
mortar gaps, damaged corners. - Concrete: hairline cracks in driveways and walks
are normal; cracks you can catch a fingernail in, or slabs already
settling toward the house, are punch-list items. - Exterior doors, hose bibs, outlets: every exterior
door locks smoothly; both hose bibs flow; exterior outlets are live and
covered.
Systems (The Expensive Stuff)
- Every faucet, hot and cold — hot water should
arrive within a reasonable wait, and look under every sink while the
water runs: a dry cabinet floor after two minutes is the test. - Flush every toilet. Fill and drain every tub. Watch
drain speed; listen for gurgling (venting problems announce themselves
early). - HVAC in both modes — run heat and cooling
regardless of season, feel airflow at every register in every room, and
confirm the thermostat’s programmed schedule actually controls it. Ask
where the filters are and what size. - Every outlet and switch — this is the phone-charger
lap of the house. Test GFCI buttons in kitchen, baths, garage, and
exterior. Confirm ceiling-fan-rated boxes where you ordered them. - Water heater, panel, shutoffs: no leaks at the
water heater, breaker panel fully labeled (make them label it if not),
and have the super physically show you the main water shutoff, gas
shutoff, and sprinkler shutoff. Photograph all three. - Appliances: run the dishwasher a full cycle if time
allows, all burners, oven to temperature, disposal, range hood venting
outside (tissue test), washer/dryer connections if
included.
Interior Finishes
- Doors and windows: every interior door opens,
closes, and latches without rubbing; every window opens, locks, and has
screens; no fogging between panes (failed seal = replacement, not
adjustment). - Floors: walk every room — squeaks, lippage between
tiles, gaps at transitions. Set your marble down in suspect corners;
persistent rolling in one direction is worth a conversation. - Walls, ceilings, trim: check in natural side-light
for drywall seams, nail pops, paint holidays, and caulk gaps at trim.
Tape-mark each defect — the punch list is only as good as its
markers. - Cabinets and counters: every door and drawer,
alignment and soft-close; counters for chips and seam quality; verify
the actual granite/quartz slab and cabinet color against your
design order. Design-center substitutions happen, and the walkthrough is
when they’re free to fix. - Caulk and seal: tubs, showers, backsplashes,
exterior penetrations. Missing caulk is a five-minute fix now and a
water stain later.
Paperwork (Don’t Leave Without
It)
- The punch list itself, in writing, signed by the builder’s
rep, with a completion date for every item — ideally before
closing, or with money escrowed for anything after. - Warranty documents and process: the standard
structure is one-year workmanship, two-year systems, ten-year structural
— get the claim procedure and the emergency contact in writing. - Manuals, registrations, and codes: appliance
manuals and serial numbers, HVAC filter sizes, paint color names and
codes (touch-up kits if offered), garage door codes and openers, and any
smart-home logins the builder configured. - Ask the two magic questions: “What would you fix if
this were your house?” and “Which trades are coming back, and when?”
Superintendents answer honest questions more often than people
expect.
If Things Are Wrong
Volume matters less than severity: a 30-item punch list of paint
touch-ups is a normal Tuesday; one item involving drainage, structure,
or a system that doesn’t run is a reason to delay
closing — your leverage drops by roughly 100% the moment you
fund. Most builders will fix a long cosmetic list without drama. Put
everything in writing, photograph everything, and never accept “we’ll
take care of it after closing” without a signed date and, ideally,
escrowed funds.
Walkthrough rights and warranty terms vary by contract and state
— read yours before the appointment. See our companion guides on builder
questions and the hidden costs of new construction.
Sources
- Industry-standard 1/2/10 warranty structure — NAHB (nahb.org)
- Punch list and walkthrough practice — compiled from builder and
inspection industry guidance; independent inspection pricing from
national inspector associations’ published ranges